I am pleased to speak to you today about a place very dear to my heart, where I have been going regularly for several months now:the Domaine de Villarceaux. It seems that fate does things well...well, I can confirm it! I discovered this haven of peace by pure chance during my summer walks. Would you like me to tell you my little anecdote? I hear you all answer "Yes" in thought (or so I imagine). Well, that day, I wanted to visit the Château d'Ambleville and its famous gardens, unfortunately I only had my bank card to pay for my visit. A little advice I can give you:always plan cash when doing your cultural discoveries, because that day I couldn't visit Ambleville.
To console myself, I continued my journey and finally came across what I consider to be a jewel of French heritage. And I weigh my words. Want to experience a place where you feel like time has stopped? To look back a few centuries and imagine the life you might have had in another time? Well, Villarceaux is where you have to go.
Unknown to the general public, which can be a good thing in the end because it ensures its tranquility. But what a pity, this place is just waiting to be discovered, because it is the witness of our history! For me, this area has all the assets to be one of the most visited places in Île-de-France:a true haven of peace, an extraordinary history and an exceptional architectural heritage.
I'll take you with me to discover it!
An earthly paradise surrounded by nature
Located just 80km from the capital, Le Domaine de Villarceaux is nestled in the heart of Vexin. For nature lovers like me, it is an earthly paradise. Far from the hustle and bustle of Parisian life, the Domaine de Villarceaux offers you the possibility of getting away from it all for a walk or a visit.
The 80 hectares of the domain become a real playground for children in search of release. The many patches of grass form a perfect mattress for the rest of those who wish to laze in the sun or in the shade of a lime tree. The many paths around the various gardens of the Domaine de Villarceaux delight fans of long walks.
As you will have understood, the Domaine de Villarceaux is a place where you can recharge your batteries as you wish. I am myself from the Ile-de-France, and it is clearly MY haven of peace to relax on the weekend. I'm sure it will have the same effect on you, whether you're a student, active without children, a family, or a retired couple.
History of the Domaine de Villarceaux
The origins of the Domaine de Villarceaux date back to the 11th century, with the construction of a fortified wooden castle. This castle will then give way to a real fortress.
In the 15th century, the members of the Mornay family became the lords of Villarceaux, and this for more than two centuries, until the extinction of the branch. They will undertake major changes in the Estate, which is expanding and becoming a real agricultural property. The fortress dedicated to defense will then give way to a castle dedicated to habitation and pleasures.
In the 18th century, the Domaine de Villarceaux then owned several thousand hectares. It is one of the most important kingdoms in the north.
Listed as a Historic Monument since 1941, Villarceaux now belongs to the “Léopold Mayer Foundation for the Progress of Man” and is managed by the Ile-de-France Region.
An extraordinary architectural heritage
You will undoubtedly be surprised by all that can be found at Domaine de Villarceaux. Fans of medieval times, the modern era, fabulous gardens or good family outings will be served. The Domaine de Villarceaux is 80 hectares included in a 5 km long wall. The Domaine de Villarceaux is also outbuildings, gardens labeled "remarkable gardens" and no less than 3 castles!
The medieval castle:the Saint-Nicolas Tower
Arriving at the Domaine de Villarceaux, you will arrive on the last of the 4 towers that made up the old 11th century castle. First in wood, it will then be transformed in the 13th century to be in wood and stone, then in 1320 it will be built entirely in stone. The medieval castle will finally be destroyed in the 18th century by the owner of the Castle called "from the top", in order to use the stones for the construction of the outbuildings intended for the servants.
During your visit, I invite you to enter the Tower. You will find a source of drinking water there. It was intended to feed its inhabitants in the event of a siege and to prevent any attempt at poisoning. For those who will visit the estate in the heat wave, go there to find the coolness. A legend has it that it is a fountain of youth! See you in 10 years, I'll tell you if I kept my youth 😊
The Renaissance Castle, known as "Ninon's Manor"
Built in 1560 on the site of the old medieval barnyard, this Manor contains fabulous decorations from the 16th and 17th centuries. And then you have to say to yourself, "Who is this Ninon?" ". This Manor refers to Ninon de Lenclos. This woman of letters and wit was one of the most important of her time. She indeed frequented this place during her relationship with Louis de Mornay, Marquis de Villarceaux. Contrary to what one may see or hear, Ninon de Lenclos will only stay there for a few weeks (and not 3 years), but she will forever mark the spirit of Villarceaux. I talk to you below about the relationship between Ninon de Lenclos and the Marquis de Villarceaux.
This place is unfortunately not open to visitors (except in exceptional cases), to my greatest regret. I dream of one day being able to enter it!
The outbuildings of the Manor
The outbuildings of the Renaissance Château were built in 1563 around a courtyard, you will find real architectural gems there. In particular, there is a 16th century bakery. This bakery produced bread daily for 100 to 150 people.
The Vertugadin
After crossing the courtyard of the outbuildings, I invite you to move forward towards the Château called "Du Haut". You will then come to a Vertugadin, which has never been modified since its creation. A farthingale is a stepped garden, which is found in particular in French gardens. This name refers in particular to the elements found in women's dresses, which have a curved shape. During your climb, you will come across several statues from the 17th and 18th centuries, coming straight from Italy.
The Castle says "From the Top"
After your ascent of the farthingale, you will finally arrive at the 18th century castle. Remember what you discovered a few minutes earlier:the 14th century Tour Saint-Nicolas, and the 16th century Manoir de Ninon, and now we are entering the 18th century. That's really what I like about this place:we're taking a real journey through history.
It was in 1744 that Charles Jean-Baptiste du Tillet, Marquis de Bussière, financial adviser to Louis XV, inherited the Estate as a wedding present. He considers that the part built at the bottom of the estate is not worthy of living there and receiving his future guests, in particular the court members of the court. He therefore decided to build his home on the heights of the Domaine de Villarceaux, thus taking advantage of an exceptional view of the Vexin to impress the assembly. Built between 1755 and 1759, this Château still has its original furniture, one of the last in France. The construction was led by the Parisian architect Jean-Baptiste Courtonne, who was mainly responsible for the construction of town halls. This is why we find this architecture and this layout of the rooms so particular to mansions. I really appreciate this small, friendly, intimate and furnished castle.
The gardens
The Domaine de Villarceaux has several gardens, with the "Remarkable Garden" label. During your walk in the heart of the Domaine de Villarceaux, you will find near the Tour Saint-Nicolas the medieval terrace where medicinal plants are grown. In front of the terrace, a real garden on the water:the parterre on the water, dating from the 16th century. Around, the Manor is reflected in the waters of the Mirror of Ninon, around which you can walk, before arriving at the large pond.
As you can see, water is a key element in the Domaine de Villarceaux, which lives in virtual self-sufficiency. There are 32 sources, which represents a record in France and Europe.
Even though the Estate has a lot of assets, the gardens are for me the main asset of the place! It breaks all the codes that we are used to seeing. It is difficult to compare the Domaine de Villarceaux to any other historic site, it is so unique! And its gardens play a major role in its uniqueness. I won't tell you more, so that you have a surprise during your visit.
Ninon de Lenclos and Louis de Mornay:a passionate love
In the list of mythical couples, we can mention Romeo and Juliet, Bonnie and Clyde, and… Ninon de Lenclos and Louis de Mornay, Marquis de Villarceaux.
Anne Ninon de l'Enclos, known as Ninon de Lenclos, is one of the most famous women of her time under Louis XIV. A woman of letters and wit, she is known for holding a salon where famous guests come to discuss and share.
Louis de Mornay, soldier and courtier close to Louis XIV, is the Marquis de Villarceaux, owner of the Domaine de Villarceaux. He had a reputation as a seducer and unfaithful husband, and was therefore not appreciated by all his peers (he will have sought it)
It was during an evening organized in the living room of Ninon that the two lovebirds met. Boisrobert, poet and playwright, was invited to this famous salon, and decided to take Louis de Mornay with him. It's love at first sight that operates between Ninon de Lenclos and the Marquis (just like in the movies!). But now, Louis must be absent for 8 days. During these 8 days when Ninon de Lenclos will find himself without him, the reputation of the Marquis will rise to the surface. But it is without knowing Ninon, this strong woman, with an independent spirit. To hell with the gossip, her love for Louis de Mornay is stronger.
On his return, the Marquis de Villarceaux took his sweetheart to his lands:the Domaine de Villarceaux. She will stay for a few weeks in the old castle. It is even said that Louis de Mornay took him to dip his hands in the spring, this famous fountain of youth which ensures youth. These weeks spent together at the Domaine de Villarceaux are a real haven of peace for the two lovebirds. Louis de Mornay, that sickly jealous man, had his beloved for himself. He possessed her, this inconstant woman who lends herself without ever giving. The marquis felt great pride. But that won't last long. Ninon de Lenclos owed accounts to justice, which forced his return to Paris. She will therefore resume her quarters, as well as her habits. This return to reality distanced him from the Marquis de Villarceaux, who was increasingly jealous and demanding accountability. This love so strong and passionate faded and will eventually end. Despite this sad end, the Marquis de Villarceaux was favored by this relationship. Ninon's love was like a title, which allowed him to make himself known to his friends and the King. He will become very close to the King of France, Louis XIV.
Did you know?
In the Château du Haut, you can observe a rather special painting:a painting representing François d'Aubigné, Madame de Maintenon, the second wife of Louis XIV. This canvas, representing her as a bare-breasted Greek goddess, was painted by the Marquis de Villarceaux himself. After breaking up with Ninon de Lenclos, this inveterate seducer set his sights on the future wife of the King of France. They will have an intimate relationship for almost 3 years.
Events at the Domaine de Villarceaux
Many events are organized throughout the year, in order to make discover this little-known place, and to give life to the Domaine de Villarceaux. These events are organized by Les Amis de Villarceaux, an association that works to promote it.
I'm not going to present them all to you, because there are many, so here is a small selection of my favorite events:
Night in Villarceaux
On the occasion of the Night of Museums which takes place every year in May, the Château du Haut du Domaine de Villarceaux invites you for an intimate visit by candlelight. Relive the era of the Enlightenment, vibrate to the sound of clashing swords during lively scenes and awaken your taste buds with the gourmet market. This event is a good way to discover the Domaine de Villarceaux in an original way.
The History of Villarceaux
History lovers will be like fish in water during this event organized as part of the national event "Au temps des jardins". Retrace history by browsing the different eras, from Antiquity to the Modern Era.
I greatly appreciated this event for the various live stages offered throughout the Estate, which takes us back in time.
Christmas Magic
Live the Magic of Christmas in the heart of a historic Estate! This is what is offered to you during this event. Young and old alike can enjoy many activities, illuminations and delicacies to celebrate Christmas in all its glory. And Santa Claus never forgets to come to this event every year to meet all the miniature version visitors.
@ Friends of Villarceaux
Location and Access
The Domaine de Villarceaux is located in the town of Chaussy, in the heart of Vexin in the Val d'Oise in Ile-de-France, about 80 kilometers from Paris, and 38 kilometers from Cergy-Pontoise.
Difficult to access by public transport, I strongly advise you to favor the car to get to the domain. Free parking is available
Rates, Schedules and visits
Schedules
Open from the first weekend of April to the end of October, Tuesday to Sunday, 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Rate
Free admission !!!! I emphasize this because it is rare to find places to visit for free.
Visit
The Domaine de Villarceaux can be discovered on a free visit. If you want to know the history of the place in more detail, I advise you to call on a guide-lecturer by clicking here>
And that's it for the discovery of this place so dear to my heart! I hope I have made you want to visit this exceptional historic place, whether to discover its history, its architecture or even for a Sunday stroll. I await your feedback on your visit with great impatience, and do not hesitate to talk about it around you, in order to make it known to as many people as possible!
Source:
– Gallica
– Friends of Villarceaux
– http://racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Mornay.pdf
– Romain, guide-lecturer https://visitespatrimoine.wixsite .com/guidedtours (thanks for your help!)
Let us guide you to other castles...
The Castles