The clothing of the noblewomen differed considerably from the clothing of the lower social classes, at least from the High Middle Ages. Expansive cuts, opulent fabrics, expensive colors and valuable accessories:the greater the influence, the more magnificent the robe. In our blog post, we look at the robes of noblewomen throughout the Middle Ages.
The courtly fashion – some considerations first
In the Middle Ages, the fashion of the nobility – and thus also the clothing of the courtly noblewoman – was driven by trends more than the fashion of the lower classes. This is because, on the one hand, the working population tended to need clothing that was practical, resilient and comfortable. On the other hand, only the wealthy could afford expensive fabrics, colors or complex cutting techniques that require a lot of fabric.
For the privileged, wearing fine robes served not only for adornment but also for prestige. From the late Middle Ages in particular, the rule was that the more valuable the fabric, the higher the status of the noblewoman. It is therefore not surprising that the change in fashion was shaped by the nobility.
However, with the rise of the middle classes and wealthier farmers, it became increasingly difficult for the nobility to stand out. To counteract this conflict, laws were enacted that prohibited the common people from wearing certain fabrics, colors and cuts. However, since new trends were constantly emerging, it was difficult to keep the decrees up to date.
Clothes of noblewomen in the early Middle Ages
At the beginning of the early Middle Ages, around 500 AD, the clothes of noblewomen did not stand out so much from the clothes of the lower classes. The ladies wore a smock-like shirt skirt, held together at the shoulders by brooches. A shawl was worn over it, which could also cover the head. The noblewoman wore a belt around her hips, to which a bag was attached.
At that time, social differences were reflected less in clothing and more in jewelry. Necklaces, fibulae as well as arm, ear and finger rings were popular.
The noblewoman's clothes changed after that, mainly due to Roman influences. The typical smock-like shirt was replaced by a long, wide-cut skirt and tight-fitting sleeves. The nobles continued to wear wool and linen, but expensive silk became increasingly popular with the nobility and kings. The precious silk fabric, also known as purple in the Middle Ages, was available in all imaginable colors. The Merovingian Queen Arnegundis, for example, was buried in 570 with a violet undergarment and a brown silk upper robe embroidered with gold thread.
From the 8th century the Merovingian royal family was replaced by the Carolingian. The expensive silk fabrics had fully established themselves by then and were supplemented with valuable marten and ermine skins. The fabrics were interwoven with gold threads. The Byzantine court continued to dictate the fashion of the period. Noble women wore a long, wide undergarment, over which a shorter, long-sleeved overgarment. Only later did longer variants of the outer dress develop.
Women's clothing in the High Middle Ages
Most striking are the long hanging sleeves, which came into fashion among aristocratic women from the 10th century. They could sometimes reach the ground. The outer garments were worn shorter again and bright colors determined the fashion of this time. So red and dark violet clothing was particularly chic. The precious stones and pearls in the jewelery and the decorative stitching were also colourful.
From the 11th century, the skirts of the dresses were provided with fabric wedges at the front and back so that they were particularly wide. In the area of the chest and waist, on the other hand, clothes became tighter and tighter. The sleeves could be detached from the clothes with narrow ties so that they could be washed separately, exchanged or given away if necessary. The upper and lower garments were always combined in different colors. A distinctive color symbolism developed that provided information about the state of mind of the wearer.
The coats were lined with furs or dyed fabrics. They were no longer closed with fibulae, but with a chain that ended in two tassels (a kind of large brooch). Therefore, this type of coat was also called a tassel coat.
Hairstyle and footwear in the High Middle Ages
In the 13th century the Church prescribed that married women from the age of 18 must cover their hair. Even before that they wore long veils, but the fabrics were mostly transparent so that the hair could be seen. From the 12th century the giver, which was tied around the cheeks and chin, developed. The pennant, a more or less loosely wrapped cloth around the head, was considered particularly appropriate because it also covered the neck.
In the High Middle Ages, noblewomen wore low shoes and short boots made of leather or brocade. In no case should the foot be visible, this was considered offensive. The shoes were closed with buckles or laces on the inside and usually ran pointedly to the toes. From the 12th century, the pointed-toe shoe – presumably from the Orient – came into fashion among European nobility. The tow-stuffed toes of the shoes were worn longer and longer over time, much to the ridicule of some contemporaries. It was particularly chic to wear two different colored shoes. In order to protect the shoes from mud, so-called trippes were worn under the shoes.
The clothes of noble women in the late Middle Ages
In the 14th century, clothing fashion changed again considerably. The noblewoman's upper and lower garments were now worn tightly. The upper dress had so-called devil's windows:wide cut-outs on the side of the dress, which revealed a lot about the physique thanks to the tight undergarments. In addition, the first button strips appeared on the clothes.
Noblewomen no longer necessarily wore their belts around their waists, but sometimes hung loosely on their hips. Various everyday objects still hung on the narrow leather belts or decorated fabric belts:purses, cutlery, the prayer book, a perfume box or the like.
The so-called Heuke came up as early as the 13th century. This is a cloak that women usually put over their heads and remained open at the front. The Heuke was still worn by wealthy women into the 17th century, but mostly as part of their traditional costume. In addition, the Nuschenmantel was created, which was closed with a clasp, the so-called Nusche. Long trains were now very popular, to the annoyance of the clergy.
At the end of the 15th century, the dresses adapted to the curves of the noblewoman. The wide hips are now emphasized. If these are not available, they are faked by inserts and fabric beads if necessary. For the first time, the dress is separated into a skirt and a top (blouse). At court, clothing became ever more revealing. Catherine de Medici had clothes made for her ladies-in-waiting that specifically left the breasts uncovered. A large number of decrees were intended to put a stop to this freedom of movement, but mostly without success.